2022 Oregon Wine and Field Report

2017 and 2019 Set the Stage for Oregon Library Wines while 2020 Vintage bely Wildfire Choices

Wineries in Oregon’s Willamette Valley are shaping their portfolios with several distinctive vintages that will set the tone for years to come. From the near-perfect 2017 vintage, the tranquil 2019 vintage, and the much-maligned 2020 “fire vintage” this year’s Oregon Wine Report features wines from them all, as well as including offerings from Oregon’s Columbia Valley as well as Rogue River Valley AVAs. We sampled over 30 wines across 9 labels and found hidden gems as well as vintages that were skipped altogether in deference to the prospect of smoke taint and instead featured club members with library wine flights across four or even six past vintages.

First the good news: for those of us still lucky enough to have saved 2017 offerings from the Willamette Valley AVAs, the Pinot Noir is showing great promise. Coined by many as the “Goldilocks vintage” (not too hot, not too cold, no frost or rain immediately before harvest) these wines are elegant, well-structured, and highly available across most nested AVAs. With five years of development the promise and ageability of these wines could be exceptional quality.

While 2018 fire season impacted the mechanical operations in the southern Willamette Valley, these fires raged mostly in the south near Rogue River and Umpqua Valley areas and to the furthest south and east of the official Willamette Valley borders. While smoke taint appears to have been largely avoided, late growing season heat spikes made for a “jumpy” harvest schedule with some wineries showing great flavor with lower yields from this drought vintage. Finally, 2019 came in as it did across most of the Pacific Coast with good moisture, long growing season temperatures, and summer heat spikes that moderated before harvest. These early release wines are showing promise and may rival 2017 based on sub-areas of the Willamette Valley in particular.

And much like our report earlier on California’s vintage releases, that brings us to the 2020 vintage. With fires burning +1 million acres statewide during the year, smoke from spot fires in the Southeast Greater Portland Area sent smoke clouds crawling up several slopes of the Chehalem Mountain area. As noted previously, some wineries in this northern area of the Willamette Valley opted to skip the Pinot Noir vintage altogether in lieu of offering library wine selections. While some winemakers benefited from vineyards with south facing aspects toward the coast range in the north and the Van Duzer corridor to the south, the impacts are still present. For these areas, 2020 vintage wines can show good body and grace with minimal trace of smoke impacts. Only a few small boutique winemakers we met with – with low acreage under farm or direct contracts over smaller vineyards – were able to call sufficient “audibles” to avoid any apparent smoke impacts during harvest. These winemakers and their small productions brought in not only the white varietals but also the delicate Pinot Noir grapes in a bit early to avoid apparent smoke taint. We sampled a few of these “audible” bottlings and while the acidity may be on the borderline for some Pinot Noir enthusiasts, the body and complexity of these wines have great potential, even in comparison to 2019 and 2017 vintages.

Our report also includes mention of warm climate varietals offered by several Oregon based winemakers in the Portland metro area. In most of these cases these grapes are sourced from warmer climate AVAs including the Columbia Valley, Umpqua Valley and Rogue Valley, the latter of which shines as an area of great potential for Malbec. One warm climate varietal – Tempranillo – stands out in a cool climate growing area, showing promise and diversification as the classical Willamette Valley evolves based on the impacts of climate change. We also review two classic Alsatian style Oregon Rieslings which are highly recommended along with other German and Austrian varietals including Gruner Veltliner.

The full ratings list and tasting notes for the report follow.

Very Good Ratings (87-90)

2018 Durant Dove Pinot Noir Estate, Dundee Hills AVA

Medium ruby color. Medium intensity aromas of Bing cherry, cyan pepper, cola and cinnamon with developing characteristics. Dry and medium [-] acidity on the palate with medium intensity flavors of same, medium alcohol (13.5 ABV) medium [-] tannins and a tight finish. Light body, may need to open a bit before pouring. Very good wine. Can drink now has potential for further aging.

2018 Elevée vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills AVA

Review: Light ruby color. Medium [+] aroma of red cherry, white pepper, flint, shale with developing characteristics. Medium acidity and dry on the palate with Medium [+] intensity aromas of same with clove and baking spice notes, high Alcohol (13.6 ABV) medium tannins and a long finish. Very good wine. Has potential for further aging.

2018 Kings North Pinot Noir luminous Hill Vineyard, Yamhill-Carlton AVA

With large whole cluster influence due to drought conditions. Medium ruby color. Medium intensity aromas of bing cherry, cola, white pepper, and light brush sage with developing characteristics. Dry with medium [+] acid on the palate with medium intensity aromas of same, medium [-] tannins, high yet modest alcohol (13.8 abv) and medium length finish. Very good wine. Can drink now has potential for further aging. Small production, 6 barrels.

2019 Stoller Family Club Exclusive Chardonnay, Willamette Valley AVA

100% concrete fermentation. Delicious bright expression with medium intensity aromas of full citrus and stone fruit, brilliant clear lemon color, with developing characteristics. Clean dry and medium acidity on the palate with medium intensity flavors of same with additional notes of lemon zest and wet stone minerality, low alcohol (13.2 ABV) and a medium finish. Very good wine. Drink now, may not benefit from further aging.

2020 Elevée Fantôme Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley AVA

From the 2020 fire vintage a 50/50 “ghost” blend of Pinot Noir sourced from Meredith Mitchell Vineyard (McMinville AVA) and Élevée Vineyard (Dundee Hills AVA). Medium ruby color. Medium [+] intensity aromas of dark cherry, bramble, cranberry and black tea leaf with developing characteristics. Dry and medium acidity on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with cyan and red pepper notes, medium alcohol (13.2 abv) medium tannins and a grippy long finish. Very good wine made from a difficult vintage. Drink now, may not benefit from further aging.

2020 Para Wine Company Consulta Red Wine, Willamette Valley AVA

Iberian blend of 80% Tempranillo 20% Tinta Cao the former sourced from Zenith Vineyards in Eola-Amity AVA. Medium ruby color with medium intensity flavors of bright red cherry, cyan and red pepper flakes with developing characteristics. Dry and medium [-] acidity on the palate with medium intensity flavors of same with additional trace minerality and lingering black pepper and spice notes, medium [-] tannins, medium alcohol (12.8 ABV) and a medium [+] finish. Very good wine, pair with seafood, white meats or cuciñeria dishes.

2020 Para Wine Company Rosada Rosé, Willamette Valley AVA

A very pretty, clear rose color with medium [+] aromas of raspberry blossom and stone fruit nectarines with some developing characteristics. Dry and medium [+] acidity on the palate with medium [+] flavors of same with additional wet stone traces, medium alcohol (11.6 ABV) and a tingly finish. Very good wine. This wine could probably develop for 2-3 more years if stored properly based on the acid structure.

2020 Stoller Family Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills AVA

Medium ruby color with medium intensity aromas of red cherry, cola, cinnamon, and pocket pie crust with developing characteristics. Dry and medium [+] acidity on the palate with medium intensity flavors of same with additional wet stone minerality and clove, high alcohol (13.5 ABV) medium [-] tannins and a long finish. An very good wine for a challenging vintage. Should drink within 1-2 years due to ash exposure.

Outstanding Ratings (91-95)

2018 Elevée Bjornson Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills AVA

Medium ruby color. Medium [+] intensity aromas of red cherry, peach, cola, forest floor and clove with developing characteristics. Dry and medium [+] acidity on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with additional cedar traces, medium [-] tannins, high but modest alcohol (13.9 Abv) and a long finish. Outstanding wine can drink now has potential for further aging.

2018 Elevée Madrona Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Laurel Woods District AVA

Medium ruby color. Medium intensity aromas of black cherry, oregano, violet, and cedar with developing characteristics. Dry and medium acidity on the palate with medium intensity flavors of same with cola and clove notes, medium tannins, high but modest alcohol (13.9 abv) and a long finish. Outstanding wine can drink now has potential for further aging.

2018 Williamette Valley Vineyards Bernau Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills AVA

Medium ruby color. Medium intensity aromas of red cherry, cola, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove with developing characteristics. Dry and medium [+] acidity on the palate with medium [+] intensity aromas of same with traces of black pepper, medium tannins, medium alcohol, and a long finish. Outstanding wine. Can drink now has potential for further aging.

2019 Durant Frontier Pinot Noir Dundee Hills AVA

Medium ruby color. Medium [+] intensity aromas of red cherry, bramble, cola, red pepper and clove with developing characteristics. Medium acidity and dry on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with traces of shale and red currant, medium tannins, high alcohol (14.1 abv) and a long peppery finish. Outstanding wine. Can drink now has potential for further aging.

2019 JK Carriere Lucidité Chardonnay, Willamette Valley AVA

Pale lemon color. Medium intensity aromas of melon, pastry crust, honey and blossom with developing characteristics. Medium [+] acidity and dry on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with butterscotch traces, medium alcohol and a crisp finish. Made in a classic French Mâconnais style. Outstanding wine enjoy now and into the next +10 years properly cellared.

2019 JK Carriere Vespidae Pinot Noir Willamette Valley

Sourced from the St Dolores estate property with additional fruit from Gemini Vineyard and Temperance Hill the vintage demonstrates elegance with rich red fruits and clove fit for any table. An outstanding wine that has potential for further aging.

2020 Elevée Riesling Ridgecrest Vineyard, Ribbon Ridge AVA

Wilakenzie soil, south aspect and 550 foot elevation. Clear lemon color with medium intensity aromas of white peach, blossom, honeysuckle and wet stone with developing characteristics. Dry and high acidity on the palate, medium intensity flavors of same with green apple and Bartlett pear notes, medium alcohol (11.5 ABV) and a crisp, long finish. An outstanding wine and expression of Alsatian style Riesling in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Drink now, may not benefit from further aging

2020 Gonzales Wine Company Malbec Gold vineyard, Rogue Valley AVA

Made with 5% co-fermented Tinta Cao. Deep purple color. Medium intensity aromas of violet, dark plum, black tea leaf, and clove with developing characteristics. Medium acidity and dry on the palate with medium intensity flavors of same with additional shale and red pepper notes, rich body, medium [-] tannins, medium alcohol (12.7 ABV) and a long finish. Outstanding wine. Can drink now has potential for further aging.

2020 Gonzales Wine Company “The Revolutionary” Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley AVA (Oregon)

Deep purple color. Pronounced intensity aromas of cooked plum, boysenberry, violet, leather strap with developing characteristics. Medium acidity and dry on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with additional traces of tobacco leaf and bramble, medium [+] body, high yet modest alcohol for the varietal (13.9 abv) and a long finish. Outstanding wine. Can drink now has potential for further aging.

2020 Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills AVA

Medium ruby color with medium intensity aromas of red cherry, cola, cinnamon, and pocket pie crust with developing characteristics. Dry and medium [+] acidity on the palate with medium intensity flavors of same with additional wet stone minerality and clove, high alcohol (13.8 ABV) medium [-] tannins and a long finish. An outstanding wine for a challenging vintage. Can drink now has potential for further aging.

2021 Elevée “Three Martins” Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley AVA

Clear salmon color. Medium intensity aromas of strawberry, rhubarb and blossom with developing characteristics. Dry and high acidity on the palate, with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with traces of Macintosh apple, medium alcohol, with a crisp and long finish. Outstanding wine. Enjoy now, would not benefit from further aging.

2021 Elevée Vineyard Gruner Veltliner Ridgecrest Vineyard, Ribbon Ridge AVA

Pale lemon color. Medium intensity aromas of lemon zest, honeysuckle, pie crust and wets stone with developing characteristics. Dry and medium acidity on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with additional traces of melon and graphite, high alcohol (13.8 abv) and a long finish. Outstanding wine. Drink now would not benefit from further aging.

2021 Gonzales Wine Company White Malbec Gold Vineyard, Rogue Valley AVA

Pale salmon color. Medium intensity aromas of strawberry violet blossom and honeysuckle with developing characteristics. Dry and medium[-] acidity on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with additional traces of rhubarb, medium body, medium alcohol (13 ABV) and a long finish. Outstanding wine. Drink now, may not benefit from further aging. Small production, 70 cases

2021 JK Carriere Glass White Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley AVA

Clear strawberry color. Medium intensity aromas of honey blossom, strawberry, rhubarb with developing characteristics. Dry with high acidity on the palate. Medium [+] intensity flavors of same with additional traces of peach and mango, medium alcohol and a long crisp finish. Outstanding wine. Drink now would not benefit from further aging

Exceptional Ratings (+95)

2017 Elton Self-rooted Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills AVA

“Self-rooted” meaning the canes self-corrected position after planting and created their own root structure. Medium ruby color with pronounced intensity aromas of black cherry jam, bramble, crushed gravel, brush sage and clove with developing characteristics. Medium [+] intensity flavors of same with additional baked gooseberry notes, gentle tannins, medium alcohol (14 ABV) and a rich, long finish. Exceptional wine. Can drink now has potential for further aging.

2018 Elton Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills AVA

Pale lemon color. Medium intensity aromas of apricot marmalade, pastry crust, pear, melon, candied orange with developing characteristics. Dry and medium [+] acidity on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with additional traces of lemon preserve, honeydew, and wet stone minerality, and a prolonged crisp finish. Exceptional depth in the wine with serious cellar potential for an Oregon Chardonnay. Exceptional wine. Can drink now has potential for further aging.

2019 Durant Brut Sparkling Wine, Dundee Hills AVA

80% Pinot Noir 20% Chardonnay. Clear lemon color. Medium intensity aromas of Pear, white peach, blossom with developing characteristics. Dry with medium [+] acidity and creamy mousse on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with traces of green apple, low alcohol (12.6 ABV) with a long creamy finish. Exceptional wine. Drink now has potential for further aging

2020 Kings North Estate Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountain AVA

Medium ruby color. Medium intensity aromas of dark cherry, shale, currant, forest floor with developing characteristics. Dry and medium acidity on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with notes of bramble and cola, high alcohol (13.2 abv) medium tannins and a long finish. Exceptional wine from fruit picked before the fire smoke. Can drink now has potential for further aging. Small production, 8 barrels

2021 Durant Maximilian Pinot Gris, Dundee Hills AVA

Clear lemon color. Medium [+] intensity aromas of pear, white peach, honeysuckle and blossom with developing characteristics. Medium acidity and dry on the palate with with medium [+] intensity flavors of same with medium alcohol (13 ABV) and a long bright honeydew finish. Exceptional wine sourced largely at elevation. Drink now May not benefit from further aging.

Tasted – of Mention

2019 Gonzales Wine Company, Malbec Cecchini Family Vineyard, Contra Costa county (California)

Medium purple color. Medium intensity aromas of violet, puff candy, crème pastry with developed characters. Medium acidity and off dry on the palate with medium intensity flavors of same, medium [-] tannins, medium body and medium finish. Very good wine which can also be served chilled and paired with dessert. Dink now may not benefit from further aging.

202 Gonzales Wine Company, Malbec Oasis Vineyard Columbia Valley AVA (Washington)

Deep purple color. Medium intensity aromas of violet, blossom, dark cherry and cassis with developing characteristics. Dry and medium [-] acidity on the palate with medium intensity flavors of same with raspberry and hints of clove and tobacco leaf. A modest medium alcohol (12.7 ABV) for this varietal – almost in a French Cahors style – full fruit body and a medium finish. Very good wine. Can drink now has potential for further aging.

2020 Kings North Cabernet Sauvignon Alder Ridge Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills AVA(Washington)

Medium ruby color. Medium intensity aromas of dark cherry, currant, black pepper and cedar with developing characteristics. Dry and medium acidity with medium intensity flavors of same, medium tannins, high alcohol (14.2 abv) with a moderate finish. Uncomplicated yet not overly simplified. Can drink now has potential for further aging

2021 Gonzales Wine Company Riesling Oasis Vineyard, Columbia Valley AVA (Washington)

Clear lemon color. Medium [+] intensity aromas of pear, honeysuckle, blossom, green apple and some trace minerality with developing characteristics. Dry with medium [+] acid on the palate with medium intensity flavors of same with some key lime pie notes, light body higher alcohol (13.8 abv) for a Riesling and a long finish. Outstanding wine. Can drink now has potential for further aging.

2021 Kings North Sauvignon Blanc Alder Ridge Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills AVA (Washington)

Pale lemon color. Medium [+] intensity aromas of grapefruit, lemon zest and blossom with developing characteristics. Medium [+] acidity and dry on the palate with medium [+] intensity flavors of same, medium alcohol (13 ABV) and a lingering crisp finish. Outstanding wine. Drink now. May not have potential for further aging

2022 Kings North Chenin Blanc Sunnyside, Columbia Valley AVA (Washington)

Barrel taste of unfiltered offering made in a blend of Loire Valley and South African yeast methods. Candied lemon drop and apricot traces with crisp acidity. Great potential. Look for this in 2024.